At the start of this year I was heading to work in Dubai’s Alserkal Avenue, when I was stopped in my tracks by a group of guys wearing jumpsuits in a soul-lifting shade of lilac, paired with precisely Pantone-matched Adidas Gazelle trainers. Turns out they were part of the team at the new fast-casual dining concept Nala, the latest food and beverage brand from Tasha’s Group, which also owns Flamingo Room, Avli, and, of course, Tasha’s. While the group’s restaurants have built a reputation of incredible hospitality, moreish food and breathtaking interiors, I’d never paid attention to what their staff wore. Until I saw those jumpsuits. When, I wondered, did restaurants become as much about the fashion as the food?