AILEEN’S UNIFORM ATLAS
The Pulse is pleased to present Aileen’s Uniform Atlas, a recurring feature written by Aileen Out.
Out is the owner of Prettybusiness, a news blog in the Netherlands that focuses exclusively on work clothing.

Designing a clothing line worn by a large group of people is every fashion student’s dream. For a select few, this dream becomes reality when an airline gives them the chance to design a uniform. As exciting as this opportunity is, it also comes with risks, not only for the organizations but also for the students themselves. Brussels Airlines and Ryanair took on this adventure.

Second-year student

In 2022, Brussels Airlines announced that Gabrielle Szwarcenberg would be designing their new uniforms. The Belgian airline had organized a competition with the fashion department of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp. This was an exciting challenge for the then 22-year-old Szwarcenberg, who was in her second year of fashion studies at the time.

She designed a completely different uniform from what the cabin crew had worn up until then. The colors changed from black and red to dark blue with champagne details. Meanwhile, the accessories were made gender-neutral, and there was more focus on comfort. However, Brussels Airlines didn’t leave the student to her own devices. They hired ETP, a Dutch company with years of experience in developing uniforms for the aviation industry. Together, the uniforms were adjusted and optimized. The final result was launched in early 2024.

Saving money

That collaborating with a student is not without risks is proven by Ryanair. The Irish budget airline contacted Emma Collopy, who was then in the process of graduating from the fashion design program at Griffith College in Dublin, to design their new uniforms. She came up with three different designs, from which the staff could choose.

The uniform has now been worn for nine years, and I’ve heard many staff members complain about the collection. The fabric is said to be uncomfortable to wear, tears easily, buttons fall off, and the bright yellow jackets are rarely worn because no one feels comfortable in them. The staff even refer to the jackets as “rubber ducky coats,” “traffic lights,” or “banana dresses.” It has now been replaced by a dark blue version.

The choice of fabric was predetermined, so she had little say in it. An experienced designer would not want to create a collection knowing in advance that the clothing would be uncomfortable. After all, as a designer, you associate your name with a collection.

Responsibility to guide the process

The collaboration with Collopy seems to have been a way to save money, rather than giving the student a fair chance. Unfortunately, in this case, it’s not just Ryanair that has to bear the pain, but also the young student. And I find that a bit sad for her. Anyone who engages a student should not only benefit from a fresh perspective on design but also has a responsibility to guide the process properly. Especially if we want to make the new generation enthusiastic about workwear.