The British Army has been known for years for its red jackets, also known as the scarlet tunic. But hundreds of years ago, dyeing textiles wasn’t so simple. That’s why, for a long time, a special kind of insect played a crucial role in the dyeing process.
Cochineal
The red dye, called cochineal, was sourced by the British in the 18th century from Spain. That’s where the Dactylopius coccus lived—an insect responsible for the vivid red color. (source) These tiny creatures thrive only in hot, dry climates and are typically found on cacti—something Britain, with its cold weather, clearly lacked. So the dye had to be imported.
Because the insects are just a few millimeters in size, it took about 25,000 live or 70,000 dried insects to produce just 450 grams of dye. The temperature under which the insects lived and were crushed affected the final pigment, allowing for a range of shades from orange to scarlet red. Scarlet was the color used for British military uniforms. The dye was then boiled with other ingredients like urine and tin solution before fabrics could be dyed with it.
Spain had a monopoly
For a long time, Spain was the main supplier of red dye to Britain, thanks to its ideal climate. But it was an expensive process—partly because the insects had to be harvested by hand from the cacti, a delicate task due to the cactus spines. That’s why the British were eager to produce cochineal themselves, hoping to reduce their dependence on Spain, which charged high prices due to its monopoly.
At one point, they tried to set up a cochineal breeding center in Australia, since its climate was thought to resemble Spain’s. But even though the same species of cactus was imported, the insects didn’t survive. The cacti thrived, but the climate turned out to be too humid for the insects. After this failed attempt, the British gave up on producing cochineal themselves—and it remained an imported product.
A bite of the red jacket
When the Industrial Revolution came along, the first chemical dyeing processes were developed. The British created a red chemical solution that allowed them to dye their uniforms without relying on cochineal. From that point on, they were no longer dependent on Spain or the cochineal industry.
Although the British Army switched to chemical dyes, cochineal is still in use today. But since it’s more expensive than other dyeing methods, it’s rarely used in the textile industry anymore. In countries like Mexico and Guatemala, however, it’s still a common dyeing method—thanks to the warm climate where both the insects and the cacti thrive naturally. Elsewhere in the world, cochineal is still used—just not for fabrics. Instead, you’ll find it in cosmetics, alcoholic beverages, processed meats, jams, and candy.
So without even realizing it, there’s a good chance you’ve taken a bite of what was once a key ingredient in the red British military jackets. And that’s kind of remarkable, isn’t it?
